by William Battrum

But more prosperous days were dawning on Helens-burgh. With the introduction of steam navigation, it began rapidly to increase in size and population. As the residence of Henry Bell, and scene of many of his labours, it is intimately linked with the history of steam traffic. In 1812, the little Comet built by Wood and Company, of Port Glasgow, was stationed on the Clyde by Henry Bell, and made her first trip to Helensburgh safely, notwithstanding the dismal prophecies and doubts of even its well-wishers, at a speed of about five miles per hour against a head wind. Fame and fortune ought to have flowed to its enterprising proprietor. Fame did flow to him; fortune only in the shape of an ugly stone obelisk. From the date of steam communication with Glasgow, Helensburgh grew rapidly in importance. It presented an easily accessible and pleasant summer retreat for Glasgow merchants and their families, and a pleasant residence for those retired from business. The lands were admirably adapted for feuing, lying in a gentle slope upwards from the Firth of Clyde; and in the old feuing plan wide streets were laid off at right angles with each other; with exception of the front street, where most of the shops were kept, the houses were built detached, and surrounded by lawn and shrubbery, and considerable emulation prevailed regarding the neatness of the houses and the cultivation of the gardens. This uniform plan, it is to be regretted, was afterwards departed from, and in consequence some of the best feuing lots were comparatively spoiled for want of proper access.

In 1846, a Police Act was obtained, under which the affairs of the town are now managed. The governing officials were increased in number, and the powers conferred on them enlarged, so as to enable them to carry out modern ideas of improvement and order. Almost simultaneously with this Police Act, gas was introduced into the burgh. The streets formerly were badly kept, and ill-drained, and not lighted at all. They are now, after nearly twenty years’ indefatigable effort on the part of the corporation, nearly all in good condition, and though not so well lighted by any means as they ought to be, and might be, they are better than most of country towns.

One great drawback to the prosperity of the place for many years was the want of a good harbour. This has never been obtained, but a tolerable pier now supersedes the old stone dyke, at which steamboat passengers used to land; the want of a harbour is, however, now less likely to be felt since direct railway communication with Glasgow has been opened up. Since the opening of the railway in 1857, a great impulse has been given to building in the neighbourhood, and the size of the place has almost doubled, as well as the value of property increased. The population in 1851 was, according to the census then taken, 2895; in 1861, it was 4769, and has since that time rapidly increased. During the past two or three years the progress of building has, notwithstanding of a continual demand for houses, very much decreased. Various causes have contributed to this, but chiefly amongst them are, we think, the want of regular water supply, the enormous expense of title to land, and the very stringent prohibitory and unnecessarily restrictive conditions on which feus are granted. These operate very seriously in the way of speculators, at least, erecting houses for sale, and are a continual source of grumbling and discontent, but time will rectify them as well as other drawbacks.

Under the old charter, the bounds of the burgh were very limited. It extended from the East burn to the West or Glenan burn, and about as far northward as the present line of King Street. In obtaining the Act of Parliament, these boundaries were very wisely extended. It now reaches from the East Toll on the one side to Ardencaple wood on the other, a distance of nearly a mile, and runs back from the sea rather more than a quarter of a mile-thus covering a very considerable area. The general aspect of Helensburgh from the water in front is that of a long, straggling white town, with a screen of hill and wood beyond. Owing to the gradual slope of the ground, a great portion of the town is not visible from the water, those of the upper and lower parts of the town, with a few of the principal buildings, alone standing out prominently to view. The two best points for obtaining a favourable view are from the rising ground on the Dumbarton Road, near Lyleston, and the point below Roseneath Castle. From the first of these the scene that opens to the eye on a clear day is like one of fairyland. Each house and building in Helensburgh stands out clearly defined on a gently rising upland, and in their midst the tall spires of the churches pointing heavenward, glisten in the sunlight. On the west, hemming in the town, is the leafy barrier of Ardencaple woods, and beyond the long promontory of Row stretches seemingly across the deep blue waters of the loch, in whose depths are mirrored the white sails of the boats and surrounding hills. Still beyond rise like an impassable barrier the bold ridges of “Argyle’s Bowling Green,” ever varying in their aspect as cloud or sunshine rests on their furrowed brows and hoary peaks. The eye never wearies of the scene, for though scarcely twice does it present the same aspect, that aspect is always beautiful, and the beautiful in nature and art alike stir the diviner nature within us without satiating desire or wearying the feasting eye. A better point of view for a painter or a sketcher, however, is Roseneath. There an almost equally good view of the town is obtainable, and the range of scenery behind and on either side is more limited. The range of hills, beautifully wooded, stretching across from Drumfork to Glenfruin, form an appropriate background to the picture, while all the irregularities of the bay come more prominently into the front view than from any other point; and there is this additional advantage, that the objects are within a closer proximity to the spectator.

The general plan of Helensburgh, as we have already said, is a good one, and, if fully carried out, cannot fail to render it, so far as available means are concerned, both an attractive and healthy place of residence. It is built, as we have mentioned, on ground rising with an easy ascent from the sea; and for fully a mile back this gradual elevation continues. It possesses, therefore, great facilities for thorough drainage, and for the maintenance of every necessary sanitary regulation. The town is laid off in rectangular squares, each of these containing about two acres of ground. There are abundance of wide open streets, securing a larger space of breathing ground than is found in most modern towns; and there is little danger of overcrowding the buildings, for, except in the two principal streets, Clyde and Princes Streets, the number of houses on each acre is restricted to at most four, and in many cases to two. The houses, save in these two streets, are chiefly in the cottage order, though there is every variety of design and size of construction, and to each is attached a considerable piece of garden ground. These gardens are generally tastefully laid off in flowers and shrubbery; and as a degree of emulation prevails in the cultivation of flowers, this leads to the exhibition of considerable neatness in the aspect of these gardens; and in the summer mornings the atmosphere is at times so laden with sweet perfumes, arising like incense from them, that you almost realise what dwelling in a land of spices means. Owing to its southern exposure, and comparative immunity from cold winds and sharp frosts, flowers attain great beauty and perfection, and many varieties of plants, found elsewhere thriving only under shelter, grow freely here in the open air.

Of late years the rapidly increasing population has effected a change in the character of the property in the front street—most of the old buildings have been taken down, and replaced by handsome modern erections fitted up for shops. Of these there are almost every variety, some of them equal to those in the first towns in the kingdom, and in which an abundant supply of every article essential to comfort or luxury can be procured. There are no buildings of any antiquity to interest the visitors. The almost only public buildings are the churches and banks. First in order amongst the churches is

    
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