Journal as a Pedlar, 1789-90
The morning was spreading gray in the east, the air mild and still, and the sun a little above the horizon, when, laden with our respective budgets, my companion and I departed from Musselburgh, and with our face to the east, plodded along the shore. Here we had leisure to survey and opportunity to contemplate the vast prospect that surrounded us. The Frith of Forth, which divides east Lothian from Fifeshire, is, here, about ten miles over; and we could plainly discover the long train of towns that stretch along the opposite coast. The sea was smooth as glass, and interspersed with a considerable number of large vessels, moving lazily along on the tide, while their white canvass glittered in the sun. The sea-fowl clamoured from every quarter, and a vast number of fishing-boats from different places, were scattered about a mile from the shore, intent at their occupation. Behind us, Arthur's Seat rose towering to the heavens. To the west and north, was seen the mountains of Fife, and to the east the most conspicuous were North-Berwick-Law and the Bass, rising a little above the mainland. The melody of birds on the one hand, the solemn sounding of the sea along the pebbly shore on the other, joined to the wide watery prospect that spread before us, formed a most enchanting entertainment, that at once delighted the eye, charmed the ear, and conveyed a tide of rapture to the whole soul. We proceeded forward in this manner for about a mile, when turning to the right hand we ascended a steep hill and directed our steps to every but and human abode that came within ken. The land here is high, commanding a still more extensive view of the Frith, and the rich fertile country around; adorned at little distances with some not inelegant country seats, surrounded with clusters of pine plantings and huge army oaks, and green pleasure-grounds which serve as pasturage to some fine flocks of sheep, cows, and oxen. As the day began to decline in the west, we descended to Prestonpans, a black uncomfortable town on the shore; and about three miles distant from Musselburgh. Here I made a few efforts to recommend myself and wares to some of the principal inhabitants, but without success; and seeing neither the appearance of sale, nor the prospect of finding common accommodation for the night, we left its smoky confines, that seemed to be overlaid with eternal showers of soot, and travelling for about two miles to the south, through those fields once stained with the blood and strewed with the carcasses of our contesting countrymen, we reached Tranent, where, after an hour's fruitless search for lodgings, we were at last directed to the house of an honest Northumbrian, who kept a little genteel public-house, and were treated with a generous and cheerful hospitality. The table was spread with excellent provision, the beer went freely round, and an old travelling fiddler who sat by the fire, in recompence for the few draughts he had drunk, tuned his instrument, and entertained us with a mixture of murdered sounds and squeaking discords.
There is no species of pleasure more generally pleasing, or made more welcome to the human heart, than flattery. Flattery is the food of vanity, and vanity is the daughter of ignorance. To know ourselves, is the only method to exclude vanity and the certain way to despise flattery. Yet such is the frailty of our nature, that the minds of the wisest, as well as those of the most foolish, are apt at certain times, to be swelled by a secret pride and conscious belief of a worth and importance, beyond what they really possess. These ideas privately indulged, are not without their doubts; but when persons are once applauded to the skies for those rare qualities, and celebrated for the express excellencies which they long supposed themselves possessed of, their doubts instantly disappear, their pride rises confirmed of its master's mighty importance, and the flatterer is hugged as their noblest friend,—one who has at length ventured to tell the truth; whose candour and penetration can justly discern and honestly display the brilliancy of their merits. With a full doze of this inspiring potion we treated our inimitable musician, and by extolling the loudness of his fiddle, the agility with which he played, the almost innumerable multitudes of his tunes, and in short, every other quality that belonged to a good performer, we kept him scratching among the strings, till a profusion of sweat streamed from every quarter of his countenance, and the tolling of the town bell summoned us to bed. Next morning we rose to take a view of the town, and seeing it to be but trifling, composed for the most part of mean houses, occupied by labourers and some weavers (who in this part of the country are wretchedly poor), we resumed our budgets, and proceeded eastward to Haddington, keeping the highway, sometimes on this hand, sometimes on that, according as the situation of the farmhouses lay. As we were thus tacking from place to place, a white house, that crowned the top of a neighbouring hill about half a mile from the road, caught my eye, and as its outward appearance seemed to indicate better within, I steered directly for the glittering mansion. On my arrival, without stopping to knock (a ceremony never practised by pedlars, except when absolute necessity requires), I entered a spacious kitchen, where a large fire flamed in the chimney, over which an enormous pot raged with the heat, while a couple of cats basked on the hearth. All around wore the appearance of sumptuous plenty, but human creature I neither saw nor heard. Tired with clambering up the steep, I threw down my budget on the top of an old trunk, and sat down expecting that some of the family would soon appear. I had not been long seated, when an overgrown mastiff entered from another door, and, eyeing me with a look of fury, passed and repassed several times, then stretching himself on the floor, fixed his red eye-balls with a grim, sulky jealousy, broad in my face. I had rested for upwards of a quarter of an hour without any person making their appearance. Having little time to lose, I determined to stay no longer, and rose, with an intention of lifting my load. At this moment, the furious animal sprung forwards, and with a most infernal growl, seized me by the breast, and drove me against the partition! — Stunned as I was at this unexpected salute, I endeavoured by soft and soothing phrases, to get from his ungracious embrace, but I soothed in vain; he was proof against all the arts of flattery, which seemed rather to inflame his rage than soften him to peace. Meantime I burned with fury to be disengaged, and, had a large knife, which lay on the board, been within reach, I had most certainly plunged it into his entrails, and freed myself from this ferocious animal; but I was pinned to the wall, and to move was death. In this situation, I stood for some time, when an old lady entered, and seeing two such figures, in such a position, started back, and stood for a few moments, fixed in astonishment. I briefly explained the circumstances to her, and desired her to call down the dog; this she instantly did, and delivered me from one of the most disagreeable companions I ever had in my life. Meantime, the servants entering, she severely reprimanded them for leaving the kitchen; and relating the affair, a general laugh commenced, in which, being now out of danger, I heartily joined, resolved for the future to take care, when and where, I parted with my budget. Whether this humorous accident had opened their hearts, or that they really stood in need of these articles, I know not, but an uncommon spirit for purchasing seemed to prevail; my wares were tossed out on a large table, a group soon assembled, and for upwards of two hours, I was closely engaged cutting, measuring, and pocketing the cash; while the old matron, herself, hearing I was an author, liberally purchased a copy of my poems. After which the servants began, with no less spirit; so that, betwixt the success of my sale and the enjoyment of a plentiful dinner, I had almost forgot the horror of the mastiff's growls, when I gratefully left the house, gained the highway, and in a short time joined my companion.