Journal as a Pedlar, 1789-90
Having sufficiently examined this ancient structure, I proceeded forwards, and night coming on, arrived at a small village called Whitekirk, and obtained lodgings in a little ale-house. While I sat conversing with the landlord, he told me the following story that happened to a family in the neighbourhood, which, as it exhibits a remarkable occurrence of Providence, I shall relate. About six months ago, the master of the house, who was by trade a fisher, fell sick, and continued in a lingering way until about three weeks ago, when his distemper growing worse, increased to that degree, that all hopes of recovery were gone. In these circumstances he prepared himself for his dissolution, in a manner that became a Christian, and agreeable to the character he had all along been distinguished by when in health and vigour. Meantime his wife was pregnant and drew near the time of her delivery, and it gave the poor man no small uneasiness to think that he should not see his last offspring; and it was one of his fervent petitions to Heaven, that he might be spared until that time. Some short time after this, he grew extremely ill, and all his relations were called in to take their last farewell. While they stood round his bed expecting his immediate departure, his wife was taken suddenly ill, and, in less than an hour was delivered of twins, which the dying man no sooner understood, than he made signs to them to send for the minister, who accordingly, in a short time came. He then attempted to rise in the bed, but his strength was exhausted. Hereupon one of his daughters went up to the bed behind him, and supported his hands, until he held up both the children, first one and then the other. Then kissing them both, delivered them over to their mother, and reclining his head softly on the pillow, expired.
SEPT. 23.—Set forward on my way to Dunbar, seeing little by the way worthy of notice, only now and then two whale jaw-bones erected at the entrance to some distinguished farm-houses, the thick end fixed in the ground and the two points meeting at top, forming a kind of arch, capable of letting the highest coach or loaded cart pass thro'; being generally from sixteen to eighteen feet in height. Passed this day several elegant farm-houses, the politeness of whose inhabitants claims little of my praise; who, taking them in general, are so lost to humanity and discretion, that when a poor pedlar approaches their sacred mansions, engages and vanquishes a surly tyger-like mastiff (who guards the door, and bears his master's hospitality in his countenance), and even forces his way to the kitchen, he is no sooner in, than, as if they were afraid that he brought the pestilence along with him, he is huffed out, and the door clapt behind him. Such are the effects of pride and luxury; such the effects that wealth and independence produce in the dispositions of the illiterate and the uncultivated. On the other hand, the poor cottager welcomes you into his little hut, invites you to sit down, and even presses you to partake of his homely fare, seeming happy to have it in his power to be hospitable to a stranger. Met with nobody this day but had more books than they made a good use of.
SEPT. 24.—This morning rose early to take a view of the town (Dunbar), which is pretty large; the main street broad, and running from north to south, contains the only buildings of any note. The Provost's house closes the view at the north end, fronted with a row of trees, making a very neat appearance. Several narrow lanes lead down to the shore, chiefly possessed by fishers. At the west end of the harbour they have lately built a battery of stone, in the form of a half-moon, mounting seventeen twelve-pounders. This is the effect of Paul Jones's appearance in the Frith last war, who came so near this place with some of his ships, as to demolish some of the chimney tops, and put the inhabitants in a terrible consternation. They are also building a new pier from the battery, which will certainly be attended with a vast expence, and even without affording general content. A little to the west of this are still to be seen the ruins of the castle of Dunbar, built on a rock that juts into the sea, hollowed with gloomy caves, through which, in a storm, the waves roar horribly; which, joined to the ruins above, forms a most dismal appearance.
SEPT. 25.—Having done some little business in this place, and there being no other towns to the east or south, for a considerable way, have bargained with the master of a sloop, with whom I intend to embark for Burntisland, in Fifeshire, a town about thirty miles from this, and almost opposite to Edinburgh.
SEPT. 26.—Went on board early this morning for Burntisland, with a good gale astern; passed the Bass, and several other small islands, and landed at Burntisland, after a pleasant passage of six hours.